New research from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation finds that addressing the issue of global textile waste requires “a comprehensive circular economy approach”, with EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) regulations a critical component of such measures. EPR would place responsibility for a textile products lifecycle (including its disposal) on the producer, rather than on authorities or consumers.
The new report, Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Pushing the boundaries of EPR policy for textiles (2024), argues that a circular economy approach was the only solution that could match the scale of global textile waste, with current systems unable to keep pace, leading to discard textiles ‘leaking’ out of the system.
Presently an estimated 80% of waste textiles are either incinerated, placed into landfill or discarded into the environment. The report argues that textile waste is increasing due to our linear economic system, where textile products are not typically designed to last and are hard to recycle. This is further exacerbated by linear business models with “high levels of throughput, low rates of utilisation, and low levels of recycling”[i]
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation argues that to prevent textiles entering the waste stream or being dumped into the environment, separate collection will be required. However, separate collection and sorting is expensive - to meet the financial requirements and to establish textile collection systems at scale, dedicated and ongoing funding is needed.
To meet these financial demands, EPR is touted by the researchers as a crucial policy mechanism to deliver funding. They suggest that ‘evolved’ EPR policy has the potential to drive action upstream, for example by encouraging circular design, extending the use phase of textile products, and addressing pollution impacts, such as microfibre leakage. This is compared with the current styles of EPR policy we see in use today, which often simply focus on downstream activities, such as recycling.
“To achieve a global circular economy for textiles, national EPR systems need to align around the same key objectives, while setting targets that are tailored to the national or regional context. In addition, the idea of extending EPR policy beyond national borders should be explored further, to manage textile waste where it ultimately ends up.”[ii]
However, policy alone is not enough, with businesses encouraged to play their part too. The researchers claim that voluntary business action, including the establishment of voluntary EPR schemes, are key to accelerating progress. They suggest businesses undertake the following:
1. Design products in line with circular economy principles.
2. Accelerate the adoption of circular business models through collaborative, multi-brand systems.
3. Invest in shared infrastructure that allows for the recirculation of materials after maximum use.
Earlier this year, The TRA (Textile Recycling Association) warned that the UK faces imminent collapse of its textile recycling sector, due to unprecedented financial pressures and global market challenges. The association, which represents more than 75% of the UK’s used textiles collectors and sorters, called on the UK government to intervene, asking for greater regulation alongside an EPR scheme[iii].
Such a strategy is already underway in the EU, where in March, The European Parliament debated and passed proposals to introduce EPR reforms which include making companies cover the costs of collecting, sorting and reusing or recycling discarded textiles[iv]. A well-established EPR scheme already exists in France, where producers of textiles, household linen and footwear have been held responsible for the collection and recycling of their products since 2007. Over a 10-year period, this resulted in the number of tonnes being sorted more than doubling, from 96,213 in 2009 to 196,054 in 2019[v].
[i] We need Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) policy for textiles (ellenmacarthurfoundation.org)
[ii] Ibid
[iii] UK government urged to address a looming textile recycling crisis (zerocarbonacademy.com)
[iv] Ibid
[v] Ibid
Lauren has extensive experience as an analyst and market researcher in the digital technology and travel sectors. She has a background in researching and forecasting emerging technologies, with a particular passion for the Videogames and eSports industries. She joined the Critical Information Group as Head of Reports and Market Research at GRC World Forums, and leads the content and data research team at the Zero Carbon Academy. “What drew me to the academy is the opportunity to add content and commentary around sustainability across a wealth of industries and sectors.”
